Chornobyl: An Eerie Visit

April 26th, 1986 was my father’s birthday, and also the day when the number four reactor at the Chornobyl Nuclear Power Plant near Pripyat, Ukraine blew its top. For those who remember it was quite an eye-opener as well as a scare, especially for those countries downwind of the disaster. For weeks the unknown was troubling as the Soviet Union was tight-lipped and highly secretive about the incident.

I have always tried to experience the most opportunities possible in life, and when the chance came up to visit Chornobyl we jumped at it. Our Kyiv friend Ann had arranged for Sergii Mirnyi to lead us on a tour, along with other teachers from Julie’s school. It was quite the coup getting Sergii to take us on this outing.

That’s because Sergii was the commander of the emergency Chornobyl Radiation Reconnaissance Platoon, a response team, as well as the founder, scientific advisor, and tour designer of Chornobyl Tours in Kyiv. He stopped giving tours personally because of Rad accumulation, but Ann somehow got him to lead our little group himself. And boy did he fit the part. He was seen in the HBO miniseries ’Chornobyl’ as himself. He is also at the top of his field in Radiation-Eco-Social accidents, he is a writer, and he is an ecologist. He has had such an interesting and busy life after his world was tossed askew by the disaster. A real Renaissance Man.

Our group is in front of the ‘Greenhouse’ Containment Sarcophagus.

The advice given for the tour was simple…wear old clothes and shoes, do not sit down or touch things, and don’t pet the local dogs. Old clothes in case of being contaminated in the exclusion zone during the radiation checkpoint when exiting the zone, and having to trash them. The dogs could be contaminated too, but they did suggest bringing treats for them. He laughed about a woman who sat on the ground and had to trash her expensive designer jeans and shoes.

The trip from Kyiv is around 2.5 hours, and our first stop was at the USSR’s over-the-horizon early warning radar Duga-1. The huge erector set was also known as the Russian Woodpecker by shortwave radio operators because of its tapping sound disrupting radio signals all around the world.

The array truly is enormous, far bigger than the photos reflect. I was going to climb up a bit for a photo, but time was limited, and it wasn’t the Roman Colosseum at El Jen in Tunisia where no one was watching for such antics.

Looking down the array.

Pripyat

The day we went was a cold, dark, overcast day, and you could almost smell the sadness. Pripyat was a ZATO or Closed Soviet City. Some 42 acknowledged cities, many were secret, and all were closely restricted to visitors and the movements of its residents were restricted as well. There are a few remaining.  The Cold War allowed the people in these cities to have a bit better of a life when it came to consumer goods and such., although with very little actual freedom.

The city was overgrown and the buildings disintegrating from the lack of attention. It is oddly reminiscent of so many end-of-the-world movies and books. Amazing what a lack of paint, caulk, and the introduction of moisture will lead to in twenty short years.

Hospital

Tree pierced this fence.

Typical Soviet-era apartment building. We lived in one in Kyiv built in the mid-50s.

Drink machines with real glasses and a washer.

Amusement Park

The sheer and desolated loneliness, the very idea that this area had once been a vibrant and happening place just bounced around in my noodle..it was hard to wrap my head around. And to the poor souls who were displaced and left everything behind, especially memories. They were shunted off to supposed havens, but mostly to places where they were shunned and treated like outcasts. Unfortunately, lots of cancer was in their futures as well.

The strangest feeling here.

I imagine things do go bump in the night here.

Famous Ferris Wheel.

I was always wary of the swing rides.

Random Shots

Just walking around the town there was a great deal of evidence that everyone had pretty much dropped everything when the evacuation order was given. Although a few things may have been staged, what we saw certainly hit home.

Toys everywhere

Maybe why Barbie movie was just ok to me.

Contaminated heavy equipment

Painted half-buried old tires very common in Ukraine;

More toys.

Inside a home.

The creepiest of all.

Memorial to WW 2 soladies, sort of forgotten now.

Typical government gates.

We jaywalked all day.

Radiation check exiting the Exclusion Zone

Conclusions

This accident changed the world’s thinking, especially about the competence of the USSR’s leadership as well as its dogma. It also hastened the end of the USSR collapse. The authorities up high didn’t even bother to inform the 35,000 residents until the following day. Over 600,000 troops or liquidators, gathered from all over the Soviet armed forces were involved in the cleanup. 30 people died that night and in the weeks that followed, countless others later on, maybe up to 5,000 of the liquidators. In addition, 350,000 people were relocated from the exclusion zone, although some areas are being resettled. A rash of Thyroid cancers also followed, affecting mostly young people. Something that I found ironic was the other three reactors at the facility are still in use and were humming away while we were there.

There were moments that I believe we all shared that day. Oddly, one was of humbleness, realizing how insignificant we are in our relatively short history, especially in the little time we personally are here. Another moment that I strongly felt was the sadness and waste that was palpable to all of us. And of course the sympathy and compassion for the Ukrainians and liquidators who suffered the most.

Heroes one and all.

Some gave the ultimate sacrifice.

We spent five really fantastic years in Ukraine, and were able to travel throughout this incredibly beautiful country. We were able to see the true character of the country and its’ people, and the strength they have shown in the face or adversity and against all odds is surely remarkable. Ukraine will need tourism in the future, and I strongly suggest visiting this incredible country after the war is finished.

‘Slava Ukraine’ ‘Glory to Ukraine’