For those who know us or are getting to, we like to hike and get out and about, especially when we travel. Many times we both go to the top of the nearest high spot, (although all too often I’m told to run to the top and “get the rest of us a photo Toddy”, kind of thing.)
Only a 2-hour train ride from Taipei on Taiwan’s superb train system, we discovered this national park while researching our trip to Taiwan, and it seemed far too amazing not to do a small detour to have a peek. Occasionally during our travels, we visit places that are not as grandiose or amazing as we predicted…although I always find the essence of something to enjoy at those spots by “looking on the bright side of life.” However, this certainly wasn’t one of those! The beauty of this park exceeded our expectations.
All I can say is that Taroko National Park is simply spectacular. From the topaz-hued water, beautiful flora, and precipitous heights, to the engineering marvel of the road. This park is certainly a must-visit on your trip to Taiwan.
Taroko Gorge Geology
Taiwan began to emerge from the sea around 4.5 million years ago with a battle between the Philippine Sea and the Eurasian tectonic plates. Many of Taiwan‘s mountains truly start at the sea. The relatively fast birth of the mountains is reflected in the incredible folds visible throughout the park. The highest mountain in this national park is Mount Nanhu at 3,740 m / 12,270 ft. Mt. Nanhu is the country’s fifth-highest peak.
Fun Fact: Taiwan has an amazing 268 mountains over 3,000 m / 9,800 ft.
The gorge itself was carved by the Liwu River whose crystal clear waters are a wonder to see..photos really can’t do justice to the beautiful color which is caused by the leaching of calcium carbonate from the mostly marble rock formations of the gorge. The result is quite magical.
Biodiversity in Taroko National Park
The ruggedness and limited accessibility of the gorge lend to its strong health and diversity. The park boasts 46 species of mammals, 152 types of birds, 300+ species of butterflies, and 2,093 plant species. The waters hold 21 species of freshwater fish as well as 15 types of amphibians, and 35 species of reptiles in the park to round it out. The mammals include the Formosan Black Bear, Formosan Rock Marquees, and the goat/antelope-looking Formosan Serow.
The large number of birds make the gorge a birder’s paradise with most of the birds in the lower part of the park. The overwintering of birds lasts up to April, with plenty of guided tours available.
Of the over 2,000 species of native plants. 132 are considered either rare or endangered. Rhododendron is a familiar plant to us since we are from North Carolina. We loved seeing them in abundance in this gorge (and Thailand as well.)
Taroko Gorge Human History
The Taroko National Park holds a captivating human history that stretches back thousands of years. Indigenous tribes, notably the Truku people, have inhabited this region for centuries, leaving behind a cultural legacy deeply intertwined with the landscape. The Truku, originally known as the Taroko people, named the gorge after their tribe, “Taroko” meaning magnificent and splendid, which aptly describes the sheer beauty of the gorge itself. For generations, the Truku relied on the surrounding environment for sustenance, crafting a lifestyle rooted in hunting, gathering, and a profound spiritual connection to the land. We felt that connection ourselves.
During Taiwan’s colonial period, the gorge area witnessed significant changes. Under Japanese rule from the late 19th century to the end of World War II, the Japanese constructed roads, bridges, and tunnels within the gorge, mainly in their quest for gold and timber. They left behind infrastructure that still serves as a vital transportation network today. The road work is amazing considering the sheer, vertical cliffs throughout the place.
However, this development came at a cost as it disrupted the traditional way of life for the indigenous inhabitants. They passionately resisted Japanese colonial rule. In May of 1914, the Japanese launched a military operation with over 20,000 troops into the gorge with fierce resistance from just 2000 native Truka for 74 days. When the Japanese declared victory they scattered the Truka population to other regions in Taiwan and Japan and actively undermined traditional social structure, culture, and beliefs. The Truka’s are still in the park with special privileges that their lifestyles warrant. They sell sweet rice cooked in bamboo stalks to the tourists and live off the land as much as possible. I would have fought fiercely for their incredible home as well.
Notable Taroko Gorge Sites
As I mentioned at the beginning, we like to hike when we travel. We often book small group tours, for example, if it’s difficult to access a place, the distance is too great, or it’s a place where you truly need a guide to get the most out of it. I don’t like big group tours really, especially on a big bus….that‘s not happening in our world. Alas, we’ve discovered small group tours are certainly worth the coin in most cases. Our guided Taroko Gorge tour was the trick because of the vast changes in elevation as well as the distance from Huilin, the small town where we bedded down. There were just six of us total in the van, and the other folks were as nice as could be, which is the story almost always. These are in order as well
Bridge of 100 lions
Shakadang Trail or Mysterious Valley Trail
A beautiful little walk beside the Shakadang River. The color of the water is stunning.
Nice and easy stroll
Wonderful colors
This pool was far deeper than it looked.
The marble makeup has almost endless hues.
Jiuqudong (Tunnel of Nine Turns) Trail
Stunning engineering as well as a beautiful walk. Hard hats were required. Quite the business.
Great job guys!
Need to protect the Noodle.
Deep Blue
Listen up, please!
Pudu Bridge / Xiangde Temple
Changchun ( Eternal Spring ) Shine
This shrine commemorates the memory of 212 veterans who died while constructing the highway through the gorge. It has been rebuilt twice due to landslides. This most recent version was constructed in 1989.
This is the tunnel you walk through to get to the shrine.
The waterfall runs through and underneath the temple.
Shanyue Suspension Bridge
Hualien City as your Taroko base.
This is the local Hualien manhole cover. A friend of ours from Kyiv pointed out how interesting these covers are in the different parts of the world, so we started paying attention. This lovely mountain scene with such colorful tiles is an especially nice one.
This is a view of the river we crossed several times on our bike ride through Hualien.
We stayed here, at the Errantry Lodge. The owner, Arthur, was extremely friendly and helpful. He arranged transportation to meet our tour to Taroko Gorge and lent us bikes to explore the local area. The rooms were clean and comfortable, with fresh fruit and snacks each afternoon. There were also plenty of options for places to eat in the area.