Oh, let me count the ways.
When we decided to come to Bangkok for Julie to teach, we still had the decision as to where we would like to live. The School itself is around 20 minutes from the closest BTS, more commonly referred to as the “Skytrain” that will get you in and out of the city proper. And although we considered renting downtown, we ended up choosing a place not far from the school, and where Julie’s school buddy recommended. Living only a five-minute scooter ride from the school is very convenient, especially during the monsoon rains. The only real downside is that we have to go those 10 kilometers to the BTS. The main road is far too busy for our little un-plated scooters.
The Shortcut path along a Canal
The cool thing about our location is that there is a giant Mall, only a seven-minute scooter ride down the street. And from the Bus Terminal there we can hop on a free shuttle bus that takes us twenty minutes to the Odom Suk BTS station. That’s super convenient, and the cheapest option. You can also catch a bus, van, motorcycle taxi, regular taxi, or a Grab (Asia’s Uber). The mall ( Mega Bangna ) is huge with over 165 restaurants, many familiar names from North America….I like the Sizzler’s soup and salad bar. (We’ll talk about Thai food culture soon…a very deep and complicated subject.) There is also ‘TopGolf’ beside the mall if you like to poke and stroke a golf ball.
Shuttle sponsored by IKEA
Just Legging it Around Bangkok
I’m notorious for walking people visiting us to death, but I have gotten better at judging what is too much. Bangkok is a tough nut to crack when it comes to finding your way about on foot. Shortcut investigations often end in dead-ends here. The city is fenced and gated with private residences often, spoiling that Google map route that I had thought was pure genius. During the first month or so in Kyiv, I got off at all 52 Metro stops and explored the area around each station. I walked 10+ miles every day, but that overwhelmed my senses a bit. And it’s just not practical in Bangkok. However, unless you go door to door here with your transport, there will still be some legwork involved. Exploration by foot is my favorite way to get my internal navigation imprinted, like a sea turtle or a hummingbird. Set me free and I will find something cool or interesting that makes the walk worth it!
One time when we we staying downtown, Julie and I decided to walk along the canal. We were not in the touristy area, so it almost felt like we were walking on people’s porches…but we weren’t. The walkways along the klongs (as the canals are called here) are well traveled by foot, by bicycle, and an occasional motorbike. Anyway, when we decided to head back towards the hotel, we just turned left and wandered through the “neighborhood” of alleys in the general direction of the road. As we walked we saw some kind of performance happening, so we stopped to watch for a minute. The next thing we knew, we became the honored guests. They got us chairs and brought us juices. The performers sang their songs dressed in elaborate costumes. When they were done, people bought flower necklaces and put them on the necks of the singers. They taught us what to do, and we also thanked the performers with flower necklaces. We are still not 100% sure what we took part in, but it was a one-of-a-kind experience that would not have happened if we hadn’t been willing to just head out and explore a bit.
Side street or Alley
Another way I get oriented is by studying Google Maps. I look at what is around our hotel for example, or a destination, and remember which sides of the streets are numbered even or odd, and which direction they go up and down. It helps a lot when you get a little turned around. I use the sun for general direction as well, at least early and late in the day.
Traffic is notorious in Bangkok, organized chaos…..one great thing is they don’t blow their horns often, so that is a big plus for us. But they will if you get in the way, as a warning of their presence, Thai drivers are very, very patient and courteous. So watch your six and be careful when you’re legging it….. there are lots of scooters, people, uneven curbs, and cracked sidewalks. The trick is to eyeball the path you are planning on taking as that helps on-coming pedestrians understand your intentions and get out of your way. Psychology 101…you are welcome!
The time of day and year that you are out hoofing it can be an issue as well. It can get quite hot, quite rainy, and quite both. This is one reason the malls have such incredible and unique food courts …an oasis of air-conditioned comfort. It’s also the reason the Night Markets are so popular. Thai people go out in the early morning and after the sun goes down. During the day they are mostly inside. The heat doesn’t phase me much after spending so many years in hot kitchens and working as a welder, so while I’m fortunate in that regard, I do try to at least pick the shady side of the street. Peggy didn’t raise no fool. And remember that they drive on the left in Thailand as well. However, look both ways still…scooters take shortcuts, and drive the wrong way often.
Typical massage shop times two, I’ve seen four in a row.
And when your dogs are sore and tired, grab a Foot Massage at one of the hundreds of Thai Massage shops all over the city, We get them often when we’re downtown as the cost is so reasonable at 250-500 Baht (8-14 $) for an hour. I like to get it rough, but that’s another story. So take my advice and treat yourself, and leave a small gratuity as they, like our feet, work hard! So get out and stretch your legs!
Massage and Weed
The Choice is Yours!
Working on the water for so many years, I have to choose transport on the water here as my favorite means to get around the city. Unfortunately, that option isn’t applicable much of the time. My other favorite are the Tuk Tuk’s which are an absolute kick to go screaming around on. I have been warned to stop bribing the drivers to go fast, to my everlasting dismay. The Skytrain and canal boats are options I’ll delve deeper into in Part Two Of this series.
Moto-Sai
With crowded streets, I will say that a Motorcycle Taxi is probably the fastest and most efficient way to get around Bangkok’s streets, especially when traffic is at its worst. The traffic lights here are really long-winded, so the mob of vehicles sits idle for days it seems. The good part is that then it rolls for about the same amount of time. Especially when there is a chicane for a Right or a U-turn that backs traffic up to all but the daring Moto-Sai drivers. They like to split lanes, and I‘ve been on sidewalks with these guys and I must admit it is an E-Ticket kind of ride…a thrill-ride I guess I would say. These aren’t really for cross-city movement as they have a home stand they work from, so if they accept a longer trip, they will add a bit for their return trip home.
Corner Stand
You can find these stands all over….often near transit exits, shopping malls, etc. The drivers aren’t out riding around looking for fares generally, but the stands are everywhere and the drivers all wearing brightly colored red or orange safety vests. They are hard to miss. Only a few helmets are available for loan, so we bring our own as accidents happen, and these guys are notorious for their daring. But it is very inexpensive and we use them mostly for short hops. They can be really busy during rush hours so you may have to wait in line for a bit. Bring a helmet and work out a price first, usually just a couple of US dollars. Then, hang on to the handles at your rear. Grab also has a motorcycle option on their app. Julie uses them to catch a ride to the gym to work out with her trainer every Thursday.
Side Saddle
Beside a school
Tuk-Tuks
Crazy colors often.
I kind of sort of don’t know where to start with these iconic Motorized Rickshaws believe it or not. Is it the flashing lights and colorful paint jobs? Or is it the loud-as-hell propane-fueled, 2-stroke engines? Or the bursts of warp speed that come from nowhere when the driver threads the needle through traffic on congested streets? All of the above must be included in my answer. They remind me of Cushman golf carts on steroids, and I am going to get one for our little town in North Carolina where golf carts are now legal on the streets.
Midday Lull
They can be tourist traps as well, so be aware of this. Often at major tourist sites, they will claim that the site is closed till later, but will offer to take you to another, even better site. They intend to drop you off at various retail venues and wait while you shop, then on to the next one. Gemstones, jewelry, silk, or custom suit and dress tailoring are the typical places. They get a little cut of sales, so be clear to the driver if you don’t want to shop. Those kinds of trips with shopping are inexpensive. and you will get to your destination. When the drivers are honest, it’s not a bad deal. You are not obligated……you will see some nice stuff. We’ve bought some nice gifts and I’ve had two suits made here.
Busy Alley off Sukhumvit Road
Usually, Tuk Tuks are just a little coin, but late at night and during super busy times they can get quite pricey. So bargain the price down a little if you can, and then hang on for some large fun.
Most Drivers are fun and good guys.
Taxis and Ride Share
Taxis are another inexpensive way to get around with a 35 baht start on the meter, although at times they might try an off-meter thing by draping a cloth over the meter. This happens often late at night when rides are at a premium, and when traffic is at its worst. You can usually get them to come off of the crazy high price a little, but it will still be a little pricier than the meter. We usually try to get headed home before 11 so that’s not a big issue with us. There are Taxi stands at the major malls and public transport exits., or you can just flag one down. There are also ride Apps such as Grab and Bolt that can come in handy. They are about twice the cost of a taxi as a rule of thumb….even more during rush hours. Another thing to remember is that almost all major streets are divided, and one-way, so you need to be on the right side of the street unless you’re willing to risk getting stuck in traffic waiting to make a U-turn in the proper direction. There are plenty of pedestrians overpasses so no worries finding a way over.
From the Middle platform of BTS Skytrain
Songthaew’s; Thailands other Workhorse
Typical
These covered pickup trucks are common all over the country …. although not so much downtown. They are so easy to hail…they will even ‘attention‘ toot their horns if you are walking….especially on the islands, Bangkok suburbs, or the countryside. Just wave them down. State your destination and you’ll get a price. It won’t be much. Songthaew literally means ‘Two Rows’. So where you ride is two benches facing each other…a get-to-meet-your-travel-mates kind of ride. With the wind in your hair, they are quite nice, especially if it’s a hot day. You can also tap the metal roof when you need to get off. Be careful though…. it’s easy to crack your noodle on their roofs. Same same (a Thai saying) with Tuk-Tuk’s roofs, they will both put a knot on your head. Trust me on this one.
Bench Seats
A few final thoughts For Part 1
When you visit Thailand you most likely will arrive in Bangkok. Have some time planned for this incredible and wide-open city. I suggest you plan your time wisely….Thailand has so many “Must Sees”, and rushing a visit anywhere is not so much fun, and is highly stressful. The vibe in Bangkok reminds me of Key West, Florida… no harm no foul, and the variety of characters is one of the best parts of living here. Did I mention that I love people-watching and making up their travel stories in my head? So have some fun while you’re here and do a little people watching….just don’t be creepy.
In Part 2 we’ll get into the ins and outs of Bangkok’s excellent public transport system.
Safe Travels… Remember…Leave Slowly and Come Back Quickly.